- #Adobe photoshop v 8 full size
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I then only process the ones I want, based on the previews. After copying all original shots to a backup CD or two, I have expanded the RAW preview window in the file browser so that it's large enough to really see what kind of shot each one is. I only shoot RAW now, unless it's a party where the shot quality isn't of paramount importance. My workflow has evolved now that I have PS/CS. Many have already answered your questions, in various forms, so I thought I'd throw in my 02c. But I can see the power, and think it will be a good thing to learn. I am a CAD CAM user, and have done C-programming. I retire soon, and expect to spend a few years learning what must be the most complex computer program known. Last night I tried a RAW conversion in CS and it brought the file in at a different resolution.
The jury is out if CS does a better historgram correction, so far I do better with BB. When converting to RAW from BB, I can add noise reduction, fiddle with WB and the historgram.
#Adobe photoshop v 8 full size
I can view the files in full size prior to making the conversion decison. Some I want to save, but are not worth converting. Then I open the files in BB and delete any bad files before converting. I can pop my card into the card reader open BB, highlight all files and tell it to move to my hard drive all at once. Also I think BB is easier to use to download. But if I convert my RAW in CS, it loses the EXIF data, BB does not. Maybe because PSCS has such a steep learning curve.
#Adobe photoshop v 8 trial
The free trial version of C1-LE and decide from there.
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Would get PS-CS, play with its RAW stuff for a while, then download
#Adobe photoshop v 8 upgrade
Upgrade from PS Elements for something like $299. Indispensable for everything beyond RAW processing. 4.0 for about $100 or less (if lucky) and then buy the PS CS upgrade for $140 at buy.com and have PS CS full for under $250. You can change exposure, WB, Brightness, tint, etc, etc. I personally think it's a great piece of software. You can save it in 16-bit Photoshop, Cineon, PNG, & TIFF without having to really "dumb down" your photo. It does not save the file back into CRW format. Or you can switch to 8-bits and save in jpg, or others. CRW into PS RAW (whatever that is), photoshop psd or pdd or tif or pdf.
If I were you I would get PS-CS, play with its RAW stuff for a while, then download the free trial version of C1-LE and decide from there. You can upgrade from PS Elements for something like $299. On the other hand, PS-CS is indispensable for everything beyond RAW processing. I kind of lean towards C1 for RAW processing but the jury is still out. Another solution might be to go withĬapture one, if all you want to do is raw conversion & don't need If you'reĬoncerned, you can save the images as 16-bit/channel (they areĭepends what you want to do. You can perform some manipulations to the histogram in a "rawĭialog" before the image is actually opened in PS. Please share with us your experiences using this product with 10Dīefore I buy, what should I know first? What expectation should weĭoes it force you to convert your 10D RAW to a photoshop file?Īny information you can share would be more then appreciated. Another solution might be to go with capture one, if all you want to do is raw conversion & don't need the other features of photoshop If you're concerned, you can save the images as 16-bit/channel (they are 12-bit per channel out of the camera)ĭepends what you want to do. You can perform some manipulations to the histogram in a "raw dialog" before the image is actually opened in PS. Quality of the pic in terms of color or general quality? When you open a 10D RAW from this product, will it dumb-down the Though I think capture one has similar features. I understand it works directly with 10D RAW files.is that so?
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